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Pedetrians wander stone streets beneath greenery and brightly painted shutters, while a proprietor sets up outdoor seating at a restaurant.
The streets of Alaçatı, one of the blissful towns in the İzmir region.
Kadagan/Shutterstock

The 22 Essential Restaurants (and Vineyards) in İzmir, Turkey

Wood-fired octopus at a Michelin-starred tasting menu, stuffed zucchini blossoms in a garden oasis, fried seafood at a decades-old oceanfront spot, and more of the best meals on the Turkish Riviera

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The streets of Alaçatı, one of the blissful towns in the İzmir region.
| Kadagan/Shutterstock

İzmir, the city and the region of the same name on the Aegean coast, has been a center of Turkish food for millennia. The archeological excavation of Klazomenai, an Ionian city under the modern town of Urla, revealed evidence of the earliest-known large-scale olive oil production site, dating back to 6th century B.C. It’s just one location, along with the ancient cities of Ephesus (the home of the Temple of Artemis) and Pergamon (a UNESCO World Heritage site), that draws history buffs to the region.

But the blissful Aegean coastline also brings in plenty of visitors more interested in its contemporary culture than its ruins, especially the region’s cuisine. Walking the streets of İzmir, visitors are surrounded by vendors selling gevrek (circular, sesame seed-covered bread also called simit), kumda kahve (cups of Turkish coffee heated in sand), midye dolma (rice-stuffed mussels), various lamb offal dishes, and şambali (dense, syrupy semolina-yogurt cake). Balık pişiricisi, small fish eateries that grill and fry the daily catch, are as ubiquitous as fast food is elsewhere.

The city of İzmir is just the start, though. It also acts as a launchpad for exploring the Çeşme Peninsula and towns up and down the coast. To the north, hit Foça, home to the sirens of Homer’s Odyssey, laid-back seafood restaurants, and quiet beaches. On the peninsula, check out Seferihisar, the first Cittaslow-certified “slow city” in Turkey, home to all kinds of small producers and craft shops. Çeşme, one of the more popular holiday towns, is known for its white houses, beautiful harbor, and beach clubs that host DJs from around the world. Be sure to visit Urla, the biggest attraction in the region, with its Michelin-starred restaurants, daily fish auctions, and produce markets. And carve out time for the Urla Vineyard Route, a group of 10 producers — USCA, Perdix, Mozaik, Şatomet,İkidenizarası, Çakır, and MMG, as well as several wineries included below — that maintain winemaking traditions dating back to antiquity utilizing local grape varieties like Bornova misketi, Foça karası, Urla karası, öküzgözü, boğazkere, and sultaniye.

Tuba Şatana is a well-seasoned, highly opinionated, local food, culture, and city writer and editor, as well as the founder of Istanbul Food and the Sapor Istanbul Old School Symposium. When she’s not traveling, she can be found eating tarama and sipping rakı at her fave meyhane in Istanbul. Follow her @istanbulfood or the symposium @saporistanbul.

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Nif Bağları

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This family-run winery makes a great stop. Huge windows add a touch of glamor to the modern construction, while the Nif Gastro Wine Bar presents a menu of dishes featuring produce grown in the estate’s own garden, all meant to highlight the flavors of wine pairings.

Lucien Arkas

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Home to an architecturally gorgeous wine cellar, Lucien Arkas is Turkey’s largest single-parcel organic vineyard. Taste a few wines, wander the vineyard, and end with a meal at La Mahzen Restaurant, where you can pair dishes with the brand’s Consensus Chardonnay or Mon Reve Marselan.

Patio tables and an awning beneath a stunning blue sky layered with clouds.
The outdoor dining area at Mahzen.
Lucien Arkas

İsabey Bağevi

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The Güners, one of the oldest winemaking families in Turkey, own the Sevilen vineyards, as well as this estate. Sample local and international cuisine at the on-site restaurant, check out wine tastings, and book a night at the İsabey Guesthouse for the full experience.

Alsancak Dostlar Fırını

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One cannot say they have been to İzmir if they have not tried boyoz, an unleavened savory pastry that incorporates tahini into the dough, making it flaky and crispy. It was introduced to İzmir cuisine by Sephardic Jews who settled in Turkey after their expulsion from Spain in the 15th century. A plain boyoz is best accompanied by tea and eggs cooked in the oven, but these days you’ll find them stuffed with all sorts of ingredients like artichokes, eggplants, spinach, leeks, olives, or cheese. Second-generation bakery Dostlar Alsancak Fırını claims to be the oldest place serving boyoz in İzmir. 

Balmumu Lokanta İzmir

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Seasonal and daily menus at this casual restaurant feature plenty of olive oil, fruit, and Anatolian flavors that are almost forgotten in modern Turkey. Ahmet Güzelyağdöken serves home-style dishes just like a local grandfather: Alaşehir kapama (big fried dumplings served with a yogurt- and butter-spiked broth), oğlak tandır (goat tandoori), and olive oil-braised produce like artichoke, fava beans, and quince. Coming from a family of cheesemakers, Güzelyağdöken also sells his own varieties of cheese, as well as olives, bottarga, smoked salmon and other fish, dried meat, and more.

Esnaf Lokantası Mahmut Usta

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As many travelers have learned, some of any city’s best food can be found at the casual lunchtime eateries that fuel its working class. In Turkey, that place is the esnaf lokantası (tradesman’s restaurant). All types of people — women fresh from the hairdresser, bankers, shopkeepers — sit together at this esnaf lokantası, tucked away in a small alley in the Kemeraltı neighborhood. Mahmut Usta guards his amazing hot food counter, chatting animatedly with his regulars as they peruse items like işkembeli nohut (chickpeas with tripe), kelle paça (head and trotter soup), balık çorbası (fish soup), kuzu sarma in springtime (lamb intestines cooked in its own broth with potatoes), and ekşili köfte (meatballs in lemon sauce). Green chiles come with every dish, as do heaps of dried and fried red peppers on fatty yogurt.

Boğaziçi Üçkuyular

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This advertising content was paid for by American Express and Delta: Get closer to Medallion Status by using your Delta SkyMiles® Platinum American Express Card at Boğaziçi Üçkuyular. 

Located on the edge of a pier jutting out into the Gulf of Izmir and the Aegean Sea, the Boğaziçi Üçkuyular restaurant offers up all the quintessential Mediterranean vibes you’re looking for, with whitewashed walls and views of the water. If you’re here with a big group, opt for the flaming spectacle of salt-baked whole fish to share alongside vibrant tomato and onion salad, freshly fried calamari, yogurt-based dips, and baskets of sesame seed-studded flatbread. 

At Boğaziçi Üçkuyular, make sure to use your Delta SkyMiles® Platinum American Express Card. With it, you can get closer to Medallion Status and your next international food adventure.

Ayda Winery and Vineyards

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Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, near the ancient town Teos, Ayda is the first wine producer in the Gödence area. The winery offers various tours and tastings, as well as a restaurant serving dana yanaklı keşkek (wheat pounded with ox cheek), lemon lamb shank, çi börek (mini puff pastries), and other local dishes.

Atilla Heilbronn Fine Dining

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Chef Atilla Heilbronn serves his food in a 12-seater restaurant on the top floor of the Narımor Hotel, a boutique seven-room mansion in the center of Urla that he runs alongside his partner, Buse Ünal. Heilbronn creates excitement in each dish without too many details, a simplicity of technique picked up from years spent working with chefs at Michelin-starred restaurants. The tasting menu (the only option) changes frequently to capture the best of each micro-season: celery root with hazelnut, isot (fermented dried chile), green apple, and armola cheese; wild Aegean greens with beluga caviar; or duck consommé with egg yolk and mushrooms. Ünal carefully chooses global wines that offer a little something different than the other establishments around town.

Beğendik Abi

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You’ll find Urla’s chefs and their friends dining at Beğendik Abi, a homey restaurant that welcomes guests with a warm interior decorated with antiques, flowers on the tables, and a long case filled with comforting dishes. Urla native Handan Kaygusuzer is happy to mother guests with an array of seasonal, daily, local specialties. Dishes could include çalkama (seasonal wild greens and cheese baked in a thin batter), sakız artichokes with lamb, elbasan tava (baked lamb with yogurt sauce), lahana sarma (baked cabbage rolls), Urla güveci (seasonal vegetable and lamb stew typically sent to the neighborhood bakery to be cooked), artichoke stuffed with rice and herbs, karışık ot kavurma (sauteed wild greens), nettle salad, or fennel salad. Whatever you do, do not miss the Girit böreği tatlısı (curd cheese-stuffed pastry with syrup).

Hiç Urla

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A Greek theater turned restaurant, Hiç prepares modern twists on regional recipes in a state of the art kitchen, all complemented with regional wines and cocktails. Following a “forest to fork” motto, the sustainable operation tries to raise awareness with its approach to sourcing ingredients, energy consumption, and waste. The Olive Forest salad is a perfect example of foraged and harvested produce from Urla, while the dry-aged beets show off the zero-waste philosophy. Don’t miss the house kokoreç (lamb intestines) with fermented mushrooms or the ekmek dolması, Urla’s traditional stuffed bread. The restaurant also organizes harvesting tours of its 60,000 olive trees, where guests will also find plenty of wild edible plants, and conducts cooking classes all year around.

İrmik Hanım Patisserie

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This boutique patisserie has regular customers from all over Turkey. Baker and owner Esra Özkutlu sells the best goat milk ice cream and French patisserie around. The ice cream comes in flavors like lavender or salted caramel, alongside baked items like a chocolate tart and acıbadem kurabiyesi (bitter almond cookies). Özkütlu only uses the best ingredients.

Od Urla

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Surrounded by large windows looking out on olive groves, Od Urla offers a true taste of every season. Led by chef-owner Osman Sezener, staff members make cheese from the milk of the restaurant’s own goats and grow vegetables in summer and herbs all year round. Though the a la carte and tasting menus cycle throughout the year, you might start your meal with blue-tailed shrimp from the Özbek region served with citrus dressing, followed by sakız artichokes from Urla with pickled stems, crispy baklava dough, and pea cream. Then it’s on to signature dishes such as oxtail cooked 12 hours in a wood-burning oven, served with fig molasses and caramelized onion; roasted celeriac with mastic gum tarhana (dried fermented wheat berry and yogurt soup) and celeriac cream; or grouper with sakız artichoke. Along with an excellent wine cellar and whiskey collection, the bar offers a Negroni menu and other signature cocktails made from local botanicals and fruits. If you can swing it, book a stay in the property’s Guesthouse — a handful of rooms set among the olive groves, where breakfast features local produce — but the restaurant can also arrange a car to fetch you from other accommodations.

A large head-on shrimp in a red sauce with square slices of trotter.
Blue tail shrimp with trotters, shrimp sauce, and veal tongue.
Od Urla

Enter the casual Levan through a small courtyard and let chef-owner Onur Canbulat make everything simple from there. The menu, listed on a blackboard alongside local wines, might include karamelize soğanlı ege otu kavurması (sauteed Aegean edible greens with caramelized onions and mustard yogurt), mücver (vegetable fritters), artichokes with green fava beans, fried beef liver served with hummus and sumac onions, or lamb slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven with almond rice. On Sundays, the menu features pizza from that same wood-burning oven.

Vino Locale

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Chef and owner Ozan Kumbasar describes his cooking as Mediterranean cuisine nurtured by the soil and bounty of the Aegean. Though his one-page menu consists of only seven appetizers, two main courses, and two desserts, each dish is as vibrant and assertive as the Aegean. Focusing on local produce (like many chefs lucky enough to cook on the peninsula) and nose-to-tail cooking, he changes the menu monthly to feature items like şevketi bostan (blessed thistle), veal cheek, and cornelius cherry; lakerda (salt-preserved bonito), dashi, and pickled artichoke; or purslane with strawberry and çağla (green raw almonds). While Kumbasar is busy, manager and sommelier Seray Kumbasar looks after the restaurant, the customers, and the wine menu.

The front of a restaurant, surrounded by white patio tables and greenery.
Outside Vino Locale.
Vino Locale

Teruar Urla

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Lush green lawns and cypress trees frame the view from Teruar’s floor-to-ceiling windows, set in a modern farmhouse constructed with Urla stones. Influences mingle from chef-owner Osman Serdaroğlu’s local roots, his experiences working at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, and his travels. Across the a la carte dishes and tasting menus, the chef’s plates are minimal and clear, showing a great balance of local seafood and seasonal vegetables. Options might include Urla sakız artichoke with broad bean veloute, blessed thistle with cuttlefish ink and clam sauce, or Karaburun tuna with asparagus. Start the night with a signature cocktail, such as the Plum (vodka, plum, Karaburun lemon) or Red Chili (tequila, triple sec, hot sauce), and continue with wines from the Urla Wine Route and beyond. While Osman Serdaroğlu runs the kitchen, Ezgi Serdaroğlu oversees the ambiance, the lounge, and the rooms of the on-site hotel.

A creme brulee topped with shaved truffles.
Porcini mushroom brulee.
Teruar Urla

Urla Şarapçılık

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At Urla Winery, the biggest producer in the region, founder Can Ortabaş cultivates local wine grapes such as Urla karası (which he blends with nero d’Avola) and beyazkere (a mutation of boğazkere). Don’t miss either of those bottlings, or the brand’s Tempus (merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and petit verdot). While the winery doesn’t have a restaurant, it does hold wine tastings at the vineyard and the 2 Rooms Hotel is on the premises.

Urlice Vineyards

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Urlice’s Reha and Bilge Öğünlü have grown only four varieties of grapes — cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, and chardonnay — since 1997, all with organic farming principles. Red wines are offered for sale after at least two years in French oak barrels and a minimum of 18 months in the bottle. The cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are not to be missed, nor are the amazing pizzas at the vineyard restaurant.

A top-down view of a pizza topped with sliced figs.
Pizza at Urlice.
Urlice Vineyards

Hus Wines

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With terraces and a restaurant set against the vineyards, Hus feels entirely integrated with nature. An innovative and refreshing menu, prepared with local and seasonal ingredients, matches the house wines. Look for bottlings featuring Turkish grapes such as kara sulu and öküzgözü-boğazkere. The winery also has two rooms for guests on the premises.

Akın’ın Yeri

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Akın’ın Yeri in Özbek has been serving the freshest seafood since 1970. Located just across from the daily fish auction on the pier, this restaurant is preferred by locals (and in-the-know tourists) for its warm, understated atmosphere. Take your pick of the seafood and fish on ice — shrimp, octopus, fried red mullet, all kinds of mussels, fried calamari, fish patties, catch of the day — alongside a vast variety of meze. Reservations are definitely needed on weekends. 

Chef Can Aras’s comfortable modern seafood restaurant in the center of Alaçatı is outfitted with a retractable roof, allowing customers to enjoy their meal beneath enveloping foliage. Amongst the indispensable dishes of the dinner-only restaurant, look for the lobster roll, grilled dry-aged fish, mackerel crudo with truffle vinaigrette, sea bass ceviche, dog snapper crudo with wakame, and — the talk of the town — the seafood paella. Aras brings a modern approach and handles local ingredients masterfully, layering flavors and visuals on each plate. There are a la carte and tasting menu options, a selection of local wines, and cocktails to complement every flavor. Unpretentious, elegant, and delicious is what you get at Amavi. 

Note: Amavi is open six months of the year, from April to October.

Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı

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A great calm permeates the garden of Asma Yaprağı. Tables are scattered around olive trees and all sorts of flowers, interspersed with several tastefully decorated greenhouses (one for winter dining, two for special events) and a store selling pantry items. While the restaurant offers breakfast, stop by for lunch or dinner, when colorful, heaping dishes are set on a long wooden table in the kitchen. Options might include sinkonta (baked pumpkin and onions), stuffed zucchini blossoms, rice with artichokes and fava beans, ot köftesi (wild greens fritters), vişneli yaprak sarma (rice-stuffed grape leaves cooked with sour cherry), bostandan salata (salad of garden produce), olive oil-braised artichokes, zucchini with tulum (goat’s milk cheese) and pine nuts, purslane with strawberries, tarçınlı yoğurtlu sahan köfte (meatballs with yogurt and cinnamon), or tandoori lamb. If you can somehow save some room, the desserts are worth it.

Horasan Balık

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What began as a fish wholesaler is now the most popular seafood restaurant in Çeşme, where diners watch as Ahmet Horasan expertly mans the grill every day. The restaurant is located in the town center and customers are seated in a garden amongst lemon and olive trees. The daily menu includes an array of fish and seafood — shrimp with orange, crayfish, sardines, grilled cuttlefish with ink, fish carpaccio, lobster pasta, and other dishes — as well as local meze, but most regulars leave the decision up to Horasan. Whether your order is grilled or raw, you are in safe hands. Nabbing a table is the biggest challenge.

Nif Bağları

This family-run winery makes a great stop. Huge windows add a touch of glamor to the modern construction, while the Nif Gastro Wine Bar presents a menu of dishes featuring produce grown in the estate’s own garden, all meant to highlight the flavors of wine pairings.

Lucien Arkas

Home to an architecturally gorgeous wine cellar, Lucien Arkas is Turkey’s largest single-parcel organic vineyard. Taste a few wines, wander the vineyard, and end with a meal at La Mahzen Restaurant, where you can pair dishes with the brand’s Consensus Chardonnay or Mon Reve Marselan.

Patio tables and an awning beneath a stunning blue sky layered with clouds.
The outdoor dining area at Mahzen.
Lucien Arkas

İsabey Bağevi

The Güners, one of the oldest winemaking families in Turkey, own the Sevilen vineyards, as well as this estate. Sample local and international cuisine at the on-site restaurant, check out wine tastings, and book a night at the İsabey Guesthouse for the full experience.

Alsancak Dostlar Fırını

One cannot say they have been to İzmir if they have not tried boyoz, an unleavened savory pastry that incorporates tahini into the dough, making it flaky and crispy. It was introduced to İzmir cuisine by Sephardic Jews who settled in Turkey after their expulsion from Spain in the 15th century. A plain boyoz is best accompanied by tea and eggs cooked in the oven, but these days you’ll find them stuffed with all sorts of ingredients like artichokes, eggplants, spinach, leeks, olives, or cheese. Second-generation bakery Dostlar Alsancak Fırını claims to be the oldest place serving boyoz in İzmir. 

Balmumu Lokanta İzmir

Seasonal and daily menus at this casual restaurant feature plenty of olive oil, fruit, and Anatolian flavors that are almost forgotten in modern Turkey. Ahmet Güzelyağdöken serves home-style dishes just like a local grandfather: Alaşehir kapama (big fried dumplings served with a yogurt- and butter-spiked broth), oğlak tandır (goat tandoori), and olive oil-braised produce like artichoke, fava beans, and quince. Coming from a family of cheesemakers, Güzelyağdöken also sells his own varieties of cheese, as well as olives, bottarga, smoked salmon and other fish, dried meat, and more.

Esnaf Lokantası Mahmut Usta

As many travelers have learned, some of any city’s best food can be found at the casual lunchtime eateries that fuel its working class. In Turkey, that place is the esnaf lokantası (tradesman’s restaurant). All types of people — women fresh from the hairdresser, bankers, shopkeepers — sit together at this esnaf lokantası, tucked away in a small alley in the Kemeraltı neighborhood. Mahmut Usta guards his amazing hot food counter, chatting animatedly with his regulars as they peruse items like işkembeli nohut (chickpeas with tripe), kelle paça (head and trotter soup), balık çorbası (fish soup), kuzu sarma in springtime (lamb intestines cooked in its own broth with potatoes), and ekşili köfte (meatballs in lemon sauce). Green chiles come with every dish, as do heaps of dried and fried red peppers on fatty yogurt.

Boğaziçi Üçkuyular

This advertising content was paid for by American Express and Delta: Get closer to Medallion Status by using your Delta SkyMiles® Platinum American Express Card at Boğaziçi Üçkuyular. 

Located on the edge of a pier jutting out into the Gulf of Izmir and the Aegean Sea, the Boğaziçi Üçkuyular restaurant offers up all the quintessential Mediterranean vibes you’re looking for, with whitewashed walls and views of the water. If you’re here with a big group, opt for the flaming spectacle of salt-baked whole fish to share alongside vibrant tomato and onion salad, freshly fried calamari, yogurt-based dips, and baskets of sesame seed-studded flatbread. 

At Boğaziçi Üçkuyular, make sure to use your Delta SkyMiles® Platinum American Express Card. With it, you can get closer to Medallion Status and your next international food adventure.

Ayda Winery and Vineyards

Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, near the ancient town Teos, Ayda is the first wine producer in the Gödence area. The winery offers various tours and tastings, as well as a restaurant serving dana yanaklı keşkek (wheat pounded with ox cheek), lemon lamb shank, çi börek (mini puff pastries), and other local dishes.

Atilla Heilbronn Fine Dining

Chef Atilla Heilbronn serves his food in a 12-seater restaurant on the top floor of the Narımor Hotel, a boutique seven-room mansion in the center of Urla that he runs alongside his partner, Buse Ünal. Heilbronn creates excitement in each dish without too many details, a simplicity of technique picked up from years spent working with chefs at Michelin-starred restaurants. The tasting menu (the only option) changes frequently to capture the best of each micro-season: celery root with hazelnut, isot (fermented dried chile), green apple, and armola cheese; wild Aegean greens with beluga caviar; or duck consommé with egg yolk and mushrooms. Ünal carefully chooses global wines that offer a little something different than the other establishments around town.

Beğendik Abi

You’ll find Urla’s chefs and their friends dining at Beğendik Abi, a homey restaurant that welcomes guests with a warm interior decorated with antiques, flowers on the tables, and a long case filled with comforting dishes. Urla native Handan Kaygusuzer is happy to mother guests with an array of seasonal, daily, local specialties. Dishes could include çalkama (seasonal wild greens and cheese baked in a thin batter), sakız artichokes with lamb, elbasan tava (baked lamb with yogurt sauce), lahana sarma (baked cabbage rolls), Urla güveci (seasonal vegetable and lamb stew typically sent to the neighborhood bakery to be cooked), artichoke stuffed with rice and herbs, karışık ot kavurma (sauteed wild greens), nettle salad, or fennel salad. Whatever you do, do not miss the Girit böreği tatlısı (curd cheese-stuffed pastry with syrup).

Hiç Urla

A Greek theater turned restaurant, Hiç prepares modern twists on regional recipes in a state of the art kitchen, all complemented with regional wines and cocktails. Following a “forest to fork” motto, the sustainable operation tries to raise awareness with its approach to sourcing ingredients, energy consumption, and waste. The Olive Forest salad is a perfect example of foraged and harvested produce from Urla, while the dry-aged beets show off the zero-waste philosophy. Don’t miss the house kokoreç (lamb intestines) with fermented mushrooms or the ekmek dolması, Urla’s traditional stuffed bread. The restaurant also organizes harvesting tours of its 60,000 olive trees, where guests will also find plenty of wild edible plants, and conducts cooking classes all year around.

İrmik Hanım Patisserie

This boutique patisserie has regular customers from all over Turkey. Baker and owner Esra Özkutlu sells the best goat milk ice cream and French patisserie around. The ice cream comes in flavors like lavender or salted caramel, alongside baked items like a chocolate tart and acıbadem kurabiyesi (bitter almond cookies). Özkütlu only uses the best ingredients.

Od Urla

Surrounded by large windows looking out on olive groves, Od Urla offers a true taste of every season. Led by chef-owner Osman Sezener, staff members make cheese from the milk of the restaurant’s own goats and grow vegetables in summer and herbs all year round. Though the a la carte and tasting menus cycle throughout the year, you might start your meal with blue-tailed shrimp from the Özbek region served with citrus dressing, followed by sakız artichokes from Urla with pickled stems, crispy baklava dough, and pea cream. Then it’s on to signature dishes such as oxtail cooked 12 hours in a wood-burning oven, served with fig molasses and caramelized onion; roasted celeriac with mastic gum tarhana (dried fermented wheat berry and yogurt soup) and celeriac cream; or grouper with sakız artichoke. Along with an excellent wine cellar and whiskey collection, the bar offers a Negroni menu and other signature cocktails made from local botanicals and fruits. If you can swing it, book a stay in the property’s Guesthouse — a handful of rooms set among the olive groves, where breakfast features local produce — but the restaurant can also arrange a car to fetch you from other accommodations.

A large head-on shrimp in a red sauce with square slices of trotter.
Blue tail shrimp with trotters, shrimp sauce, and veal tongue.
Od Urla

Levan

Enter the casual Levan through a small courtyard and let chef-owner Onur Canbulat make everything simple from there. The menu, listed on a blackboard alongside local wines, might include karamelize soğanlı ege otu kavurması (sauteed Aegean edible greens with caramelized onions and mustard yogurt), mücver (vegetable fritters), artichokes with green fava beans, fried beef liver served with hummus and sumac onions, or lamb slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven with almond rice. On Sundays, the menu features pizza from that same wood-burning oven.

Vino Locale

Chef and owner Ozan Kumbasar describes his cooking as Mediterranean cuisine nurtured by the soil and bounty of the Aegean. Though his one-page menu consists of only seven appetizers, two main courses, and two desserts, each dish is as vibrant and assertive as the Aegean. Focusing on local produce (like many chefs lucky enough to cook on the peninsula) and nose-to-tail cooking, he changes the menu monthly to feature items like şevketi bostan (blessed thistle), veal cheek, and cornelius cherry; lakerda (salt-preserved bonito), dashi, and pickled artichoke; or purslane with strawberry and çağla (green raw almonds). While Kumbasar is busy, manager and sommelier Seray Kumbasar looks after the restaurant, the customers, and the wine menu.

The front of a restaurant, surrounded by white patio tables and greenery.
Outside Vino Locale.
Vino Locale

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Teruar Urla

Lush green lawns and cypress trees frame the view from Teruar’s floor-to-ceiling windows, set in a modern farmhouse constructed with Urla stones. Influences mingle from chef-owner Osman Serdaroğlu’s local roots, his experiences working at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, and his travels. Across the a la carte dishes and tasting menus, the chef’s plates are minimal and clear, showing a great balance of local seafood and seasonal vegetables. Options might include Urla sakız artichoke with broad bean veloute, blessed thistle with cuttlefish ink and clam sauce, or Karaburun tuna with asparagus. Start the night with a signature cocktail, such as the Plum (vodka, plum, Karaburun lemon) or Red Chili (tequila, triple sec, hot sauce), and continue with wines from the Urla Wine Route and beyond. While Osman Serdaroğlu runs the kitchen, Ezgi Serdaroğlu oversees the ambiance, the lounge, and the rooms of the on-site hotel.

A creme brulee topped with shaved truffles.
Porcini mushroom brulee.
Teruar Urla

Urla Şarapçılık

At Urla Winery, the biggest producer in the region, founder Can Ortabaş cultivates local wine grapes such as Urla karası (which he blends with nero d’Avola) and beyazkere (a mutation of boğazkere). Don’t miss either of those bottlings, or the brand’s Tempus (merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and petit verdot). While the winery doesn’t have a restaurant, it does hold wine tastings at the vineyard and the 2 Rooms Hotel is on the premises.

Urlice Vineyards

Urlice’s Reha and Bilge Öğünlü have grown only four varieties of grapes — cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, and chardonnay — since 1997, all with organic farming principles. Red wines are offered for sale after at least two years in French oak barrels and a minimum of 18 months in the bottle. The cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are not to be missed, nor are the amazing pizzas at the vineyard restaurant.

A top-down view of a pizza topped with sliced figs.
Pizza at Urlice.
Urlice Vineyards

Hus Wines

With terraces and a restaurant set against the vineyards, Hus feels entirely integrated with nature. An innovative and refreshing menu, prepared with local and seasonal ingredients, matches the house wines. Look for bottlings featuring Turkish grapes such as kara sulu and öküzgözü-boğazkere. The winery also has two rooms for guests on the premises.

Akın’ın Yeri

Akın’ın Yeri in Özbek has been serving the freshest seafood since 1970. Located just across from the daily fish auction on the pier, this restaurant is preferred by locals (and in-the-know tourists) for its warm, understated atmosphere. Take your pick of the seafood and fish on ice — shrimp, octopus, fried red mullet, all kinds of mussels, fried calamari, fish patties, catch of the day — alongside a vast variety of meze. Reservations are definitely needed on weekends. 

Amavi

Chef Can Aras’s comfortable modern seafood restaurant in the center of Alaçatı is outfitted with a retractable roof, allowing customers to enjoy their meal beneath enveloping foliage. Amongst the indispensable dishes of the dinner-only restaurant, look for the lobster roll, grilled dry-aged fish, mackerel crudo with truffle vinaigrette, sea bass ceviche, dog snapper crudo with wakame, and — the talk of the town — the seafood paella. Aras brings a modern approach and handles local ingredients masterfully, layering flavors and visuals on each plate. There are a la carte and tasting menu options, a selection of local wines, and cocktails to complement every flavor. Unpretentious, elegant, and delicious is what you get at Amavi. 

Note: Amavi is open six months of the year, from April to October.

Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı

A great calm permeates the garden of Asma Yaprağı. Tables are scattered around olive trees and all sorts of flowers, interspersed with several tastefully decorated greenhouses (one for winter dining, two for special events) and a store selling pantry items. While the restaurant offers breakfast, stop by for lunch or dinner, when colorful, heaping dishes are set on a long wooden table in the kitchen. Options might include sinkonta (baked pumpkin and onions), stuffed zucchini blossoms, rice with artichokes and fava beans, ot köftesi (wild greens fritters), vişneli yaprak sarma (rice-stuffed grape leaves cooked with sour cherry), bostandan salata (salad of garden produce), olive oil-braised artichokes, zucchini with tulum (goat’s milk cheese) and pine nuts, purslane with strawberries, tarçınlı yoğurtlu sahan köfte (meatballs with yogurt and cinnamon), or tandoori lamb. If you can somehow save some room, the desserts are worth it.

Horasan Balık

What began as a fish wholesaler is now the most popular seafood restaurant in Çeşme, where diners watch as Ahmet Horasan expertly mans the grill every day. The restaurant is located in the town center and customers are seated in a garden amongst lemon and olive trees. The daily menu includes an array of fish and seafood — shrimp with orange, crayfish, sardines, grilled cuttlefish with ink, fish carpaccio, lobster pasta, and other dishes — as well as local meze, but most regulars leave the decision up to Horasan. Whether your order is grilled or raw, you are in safe hands. Nabbing a table is the biggest challenge.

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